For me, it all started from a place far away from what we now call our weekend refuge. Getting pushed into a wave as a child in Long Island, New York was an indescribable feeling I’ll never forget. Standing up on a surfboard for me felt like a miracle had just happened- like Da Vinci walking on water. I was skimming across a mound of energy, much bigger than myself. I knew then and there that I had caught the bug. My life forever will revolve around the ocean and everything it brings with it.
Fast forward a few good years and my feelings for the ocean’s force are still as strong and admirable as ever, the only difference is the country in which I reside. Every surf session I have, there is always one wave that stands out. Just one and that one resonates in my thoughts. I have dreams about it later on. The feeling is absolutely surreal. It makes me feel humbled, like a speck of dust in this huge, uncontrollable element called the sea. Mesmerised by a specific part of the coastline. The raw southern ocean formed by deep low pressure systems crashing against the rugged cliffs is something I could sit and watch for hours with content. Surfing in these parts of Australia gives solitude. No one around, four wheel drive tracks to the beach, deep channels with heavy bull kelp and of course the cold water. Some of the most amazing surf experiences I’ve had in these waters were on my own with not another soul for kilometers. I knew very well that I wanted to be based around this area.
When a piece of land popped up for sale I didn’t take any chances. Located centrally along this specific stretch of coastline offered a variety of surf breaks in nearly all weather conditions. Within three weeks, I was standing on the edge of the block that I had just purchased gazing out onto the southern ocean and breathing in the cool, fresh air. I had finally found a little slice of heaven. My slice of heaven.
Working in the city meant that this could be my weekend escape. Every weekend or as often as I could, I would be camping on the land and would plan steps to set it up as a little surf shack/retreat. I started to realise I needed some lawn mowers (other then myself and the lawn mower of course). As suggested by some of the locals at the pub after a couple of beers, four sheep on the block soon appeared. From there, I started thinking of the quickest and easiest way to I could to find shelter from the elements. Being in the construction industry, I converted a twenty foot container which included a kitchenette and a chill out area. For a couple of years, I was going down the coast, surfing and camping as often as I could.
So, a few years after purchasing the block of land, I met her. One day I was surfing some beach breaks down the road with a couple of friends when I heard that a mate back in town bought a new car he had been searching for. I gave him a call to see if I could come check it out and maybe catch up for a few beers. Sitting on his lounge chatting about what had been happening and how life was treating him, I heard footsteps walking down the stairs. In this moment, I was greeted with a bubbly smile and a larger than life personality in the shape of a beautiful blonde girl standing right in front of me. A short “Hello and have a good night!” was all I managed to get in before she was out the door. As you can imagine the conversation took a quick turn from how life was going to “Who was that!?”
A couple of weeks went by before a text from the friend came, asking if we wanted to catch up at his place again. This time I was a little early as I finished work just around the corner and was greeted by a pleasant welcome when waiting in my car, from this elegant woman! After a few drinks inside with her and her housemate, Steph, the rest is now, as you say ‘history’.